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Bleeding the brakes system
| Released | 22/09/2005 |
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| Contributor | Adrian Dascalu |
PS: this article is related to another one, "building a brake bleeder", which you should read first.
Some folks like to replace the fluid in the reservoir prior to flushing the lines. Some have been insensitive enough to use kitchen utensils (like turkey basters) for this task. This has been known to cause family unrest, and the author of this FAQ suggests you find an alternate solution for the sake of your family.
Truly, unless the fluid is excessively dirty (very dark), this really isn't necessary.
- Assemble the bleeder as discussed by Al and Jon (in the article mentioned above)
- Put
about a half quart of your favourite fluid into Tank #1 and tighten the
lid. Refer to your owner's manual for DOT specification if you are
unsure.
- Unless you are a driving school veteran and
are attending more than 10 track days per year, I don't think it is
necessary to waste your money on racing fluids.
- Replace cap on the reservoir with Cap #3 and make sure you have a good seal.
- Pressurize Tank #1 to 10-15 psi. Check for leaks.
- Start
with the calliper closest to the brake fluid reservoir. You might step
on the brake pedal once or twice to get the fluids moving.
- With
the brake line closest to the fluid reservoir, open your calliper
nipple. With the first line, you want to completely replace the fluid
in the reservoir with fresh fluid (unless you did this prior to
beginning). Close the nipple when the fluid is very clean and when you
see no more air bubbles.
- Work your way towards the longest brake line's calliper and repeat this procedure.
- For
completeness, I like to repeat the procedure again to make sure there
is no more air trapped in the system. If you have replaced brake lines
or rebuilt callipers, and have introduced air into the system, it is
imperative that you repeat the procedure. Otherwise, use your best
judgement.
- One other note is that it has been suggested
that one start with the line furthest from the fluid reservoir, but
until someone can give me conclusive evidence explaining why this works
better, I'll stick with this for now.
- After you are finished, release the pressure in the tank by pushing down on the valve release... then remove the caps.
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